Trying Not To Count

Saturday, 22 August 2009
Aktobe

For most of service, Peace Corps jokes tend to revolve around one of a selected number of topics: (1) politics; (2) the country in which you’re serving; or (3) volunteer relationships.  Then, as the time before COS (Close of Service) shrinks, themes change.  We start talking about the next group of volunteers (who landed yesterday in Almaty) or what we’re doing next.  For many of us, that “doing next” part takes an immediate focus, as a good number of volunteers have already left, to start grad school or work back in the States or in Kazakhstan.  For those of us who are slightly more relaxed with our plans, the “doing next” feels more like the steppe.  The idea of starting “next” blurs into what we’re doing now, but in order to get there, you have to start moving.

I’ve arrived in Kazakhstan almost exactly two years ago (minus a few days).

My last update was 7 July 2009.  The summer since then has been great.  I spent about 10 days in Spain with my family.  I eat well here, but the food and Georgian and Moldavian wine does not compare to daily Spanish food and sangria.  After Spain, I returned to Aktobe for about a busy week.  Following the end of July Aktobe-sprint, I traveled to Pavlodar for the wedding of Maher, one of my Peace Corps friends.  Out of the seven PCVs in our PST language group – two have married Kazakhstani girls, and one has married her American boyfriend.  That leaves three of us.  I stopped in Astana on the way – caught up with some friends.

Near the Pyramid (which I have still not had the chance to see the inside of), two new buildings have been built: the new Central Stadium (an oval) and the Palace of Independence (a parallelogram).  It’s becoming a very geometric quarter of the city.

Maher’s wedding was beautiful.  One of the most exciting parts was when we walked along the waterfront, let the doves fly free, and then opened the champagne.  It’s Russian tradition to break a glass for good luck.  Our group of around 10 Americans and a few Kazakhstanis are standing, about to pour the champagne, and a few police officers walk by.  They don’t say anything, but stand only a short distance away, clearly watching us.  Lots of weddings are going on in this area, but they stand close to us.  We pour the champagne into the many plastic glasses, then the bride and groom take the one real glass and throw in on the ground.  That’s when the police officers approach us.  The bride’s grandmother insisted on picking up the shards of glass herself – even as the rest of us were also helping, and trying to get her to not worry about it.  Then, we left, had a few more photostops, then on to the party.

From Pavlodar, I flew to Almaty.  I’ve been spoiled by Aktobe’s new airport.  Pavlodar’s airport has not yet been renovated for many years.  All of the ticketing was done by hand, not electronic like the other Kazakhstani airports I’ve been in have transitioned.  We walked across the tarmac to the plane.  No bus, no connection to the airport, only our feet.  It was a short walk, but surprising after the other, more modern KZ airports.

Our “Kazakhstan Volunteer Handbook” is finished, available on-line (http://dl.getdropbox.com/u/1612825/Volunteer%20Handbook%20Kazakhstan.pdf) and in print form.

Also in Almaty was the second annual trip bringing 19 American students (this year from NYU) to volunteer with 20 Kazakhstani students, sponsored by the JDC.  It was really interesting helping with the trip for the second year.  I knew, generally, what to expect.  I had seen the poverty and poor living conditions that so many elderly in Almaty experience.  And, I could see the lack of any change from the previous year.  The situation is pretty much the same as a year ago.  But, I had a better perspective on what we were doing.  I could relate it better to the situation in Aktobe and place it in a broader context of Kazakhstani life.  It was a really good trip and I think all of the participants gained a lot and definitely contributed a great deal to the people they worked with directly and the Jewish community in Almaty.

After the trip, I came back to Aktobe.  We’ve opened up the massage room for disabled people, along with the medical center, in our office.  Additionally, we’re getting ready to start the “Knowledge is Power” program, to provide basic education for disabled children in the city and villages.  We’re planning the third “Golden Heart” and searching for around $14,000 to hold the event.  This one will be two nights at one of the hotels in the city.  25 older disabled children, their parents, and 25 volunteers; with the goal of holding a conversation and activities focused on providing skills and knowledge for the young people with disabilities for what comes next.  We’re planning this event for full partnership between the disabled participants and volunteers – with the idea that they can work together to affect change, not in a caregiver relationship, but on a relationship of equality.  Examining this concept and making it a fun and useful event for all participants is the baseline goal.

I’m going to be very sad to leave.  Fortunately, even though it’s a short amount of time, there are a few more months.

Best,
Perry